Serums, Essences, Toners, and the Rise of Multitasking Treatments: What Actually Goes on Your Face (And In What Order)
Skin Deep
Decoding the confusing middle steps of skincare
Let’s be honest: the skincare aisle is designed to confuse you. Between toners, essences, serums, ampoules, boosters, and treatment waters, it feels like the industry invents a new product category every six months just to keep you guessing.
You know you’re supposed to cleanse and moisturize. You’ve figured out that sunscreen goes last in the morning. But what about everything in between? And do you really need all of it?
Let’s break down what these products actually are, what they do, and whether they deserve a spot in your routine.
The Basic Truth: It’s All About Layers
Think of your skin like a sponge. When it’s slightly damp, it absorbs products better. Each layer you apply prepares your skin to receive the next one. The general rule is: thin to thick, water-based to oil-based.
But before we get to order, let’s understand what each product actually does.
Toners: The Misunderstood Middle Child
What They Were
If you grew up in the ‘90s or early 2000s, you probably remember toners as astringent, alcohol-heavy liquids that made your face feel tight and “squeaky clean.” Those toners were stripping your skin and doing more harm than good.
What They Are Now
Modern toners are completely different. They’re hydrating, pH-balancing liquids that prepare your skin to absorb everything else more effectively. Think of them as the foundation layer.
What toners do:
Restore your skin’s pH after cleansing
Add a first layer of hydration
Prep skin to absorb serums and moisturizers more effectively
Can deliver lightweight active ingredients (like glycolic acid or niacinamide)
Types of toners:
Hydrating toners: Water-light, packed with humectants like hyaluronic acid
Exfoliating toners: Contain acids (AHAs/BHAs) to resurface skin gently
Treatment toners: Deliver specific ingredients like niacinamide or antioxidants
How to use: Apply with your hands (patting motion) or a cotton pad right after cleansing, while your face is still slightly damp.
Essences: The K-Beauty Secret
What They Are
Essences are the heart of Korean skincare routines. They’re thicker than toners but thinner than serums, a lightweight, watery liquid packed with active ingredients designed to deeply hydrate and prep your skin.
What essences do:
Provide deep hydration at the cellular level
Enhance the skin’s ability to absorb subsequent products
Often contain fermented ingredients or concentrated actives
Focus on overall skin health and “glow from within.”
The difference from toner: Essences are more concentrated and treatment-focused. While toners prep, essences actually treat. They’re like the difference between primer and foundation—one prepares, one transforms.
How to use: Press or pat into skin after toner, using your palms. The warmth helps absorption.
Do you need one? If you’re struggling with dullness, dehydration, or want that coveted “glass skin” look, yes. If your routine is already working and you’re happy with your skin, you can skip it.
Serums: The Heavy Hitters
What They Are
Serums are concentrated treatments designed to target specific skin concerns. They have smaller molecules than moisturizers, which means they penetrate deeper into your skin.
What serums do:
Deliver high concentrations of active ingredients
Target specific concerns (aging, dark spots, acne, texture)
Penetrate deeper layers of skin
Provide results that cleansers and moisturizers can’t
Common types:
Vitamin C serums: Brighten, protect against free radicals, and even tone
Hyaluronic acid serums: Intense hydration, plumping
Retinol serums: Anti-aging, texture improvement, cell turnover
Niacinamide serums: Pore minimizing, oil control, brightening
Peptide serums: Firming, anti-aging, skin repair
The texture: Serums can be watery, gel-like, or slightly viscous. Despite being concentrated, they should still feel lightweight.
How to use: Apply after toner/essence, before moisturizer. Use 2-3 drops (a little goes a long way). Pat gently into the skin.
Do you need one? If you have a specific skin concern beyond basic hydration, yes. This is where you target your problem areas.
The Overlap Problem: Do You Really Need All Three?
Here’s where it gets complicated. If you look closely at the ingredients in many toners, essences, and serums, you’ll notice something interesting: there’s often significant overlap.
A hydrating toner might contain hyaluronic acid. An essence might contain niacinamide. A serum might contain... also hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.
The reality: The skincare industry has created these distinct categories, but the lines between them are increasingly blurred. You don’t necessarily need three separate products when many modern formulations are designed to multitask.
Multitasking Treatment Waters: The New Category
This is where newer product categories come in—treatments that combine the benefits of toners, essences, and serums into one streamlined step. These go by various names: treatment waters, skinsplash, hydrating mists with actives, or boosting essences.
What Makes Them Different
These multitasking products are designed to:
Prep skin like a toner (balance pH, remove last traces of cleanser)
Hydrate deeply like an essence (cellular-level moisture)
Treat concerns like a serum (deliver concentrated actives)
The concept is simple: why layer three products when one well-formulated treatment can do all three jobs?
How They Work
These products typically come in lightweight, water-based formulas that can be:
Applied with your hands (pressed or patted in)
Sprayed directly onto skin
Splashed on for a refreshing application
The key is that they’re formulated with enough active ingredients to actually treat skin concerns, not just prep it. Think of them as the efficient middle ground between traditional multi-step routines and bare-bones minimalism.
When This Approach Makes Sense
Multitasking treatments work well if you:
Find traditional routines overwhelming
Travel frequently and want to pack light
Have limited time in the morning
Prefer streamlined routines
Want to reduce the number of products you’re buying and testing
Are just starting out and want a simpler entry point
So What’s the Actual Difference?
Let’s break it down simply:
Traditional Approach:
Toner = Prepares and balances (thinnest consistency)
Essence = Hydrates and treats at a cellular level (slightly thicker)
Serum = Targets specific concerns with concentrated actives (concentrated but lightweight)
Streamlined Approach:
Multitasking Treatment = Does all three in one step
Moisturizer = Seals everything in
The Order: How to Layer Everything
If You’re Using the Traditional Multi-Step Approach:
Morning:
Cleanser
Toner - Prep and balance
Essence - Deep hydration (optional)
Serum - Target concerns
Moisturizer - Lock it all in
SPF - Always last
Evening:
Makeup remover (if needed)
Cleanser
Toner - Prep and balance
Essence - Deep hydration (optional)
Serum - Target concerns
Moisturizer - Richer formula than morning
Do You Actually Need All of These Products?
Short answer: No.
Longer answer: It depends on your skin, your concerns, and what you enjoy.
Questions to Ask Yourself:
Is my current routine working?
If yes, don’t change it just because something new exists.
Am I overwhelmed by my routine?
Consider consolidating with multitasking products.
Do I have multiple specific concerns?
You might benefit from targeted serums on top of a basic toner or treatment.
Do I enjoy the ritual of multiple steps?
Then keep them! Skincare should feel good, not stressful.
Am I on a budget?
One multitasking product is more affordable than three separate ones.
Do I have sensitive skin?
Fewer products often means less chance of irritation.
Understanding Your Skin’s Needs
Before adding or removing products, ask yourself what your skin actually needs:
Is my skin dehydrated or dull?
You need hydration—whether from an essence, a hydrating serum, or a multitasking treatment.
Do I have specific concerns (aging, dark spots, acne)?
You need targeted actives—from a serum or a treatment formula designed for your concern.
Does my skin feel tight after cleansing?
You need pH-balancing, from a toner or a treatment that preps skin.
Is my routine working, but taking too long?
You might benefit from consolidating products.
Am I breaking out from too many products?
Less might be more for your skin.
The Truth About “Revolutionary” Products
Every few years, the beauty industry introduces a “revolutionary” new product category. Remember BB creams? Sleeping masks? Ampoules?
Some stick around because they genuinely fill a need. Others fade away because they were just marketing.
Multitasking treatments seem to be sticking because they address a real problem: skincare routines have become unnecessarily complicated, and people want effective simplification.
But they’re not magic. They’re just smart formulation—combining ingredients that were already being used separately into one well-designed product.
The Bottom Line
Toners prep. Essences hydrate deeply. Serums target and treat. Multitasking treatments do all three.
You don’t need all of them, but understanding what each one does helps you make informed decisions about your routine.
The best skincare routine isn’t the one with the most steps or the most expensive products. It’s the one that addresses your skin’s needs while fitting into your life.
Whether you prefer the ritual of multiple steps or the efficiency of streamlined products, what matters most is consistency and choosing formulations that actually work for your skin.
Start simple. Add what you need. Skip what you don’t.
And remember: your skin, your rules.
What’s your approach—minimalist or maximalist? Do you prefer multiple targeted products or all-in-one solutions? Share your thoughts in the comments!
Be Bold. Be Real. Be Anomalous.